Ever wanted to ride New Zealand’s best trails on a gravel bike? We did just that – with some MTB and sightseeing thrown in for good measure
Words and photography by Zoe Binder
I roll my bike bag out into the crisp September air as I leave Hamilton Airport, bound for a long weekend of riding and exploring in New Zealand’s cycling heartland, Rotorua.
The drive to Rotorua unfolds through lush, undulating farmland, a landscape so vivid and green it’s easy to see why this region famously doubled as Hobbiton in The Lord of the Rings. A relaxed roadside lunch breaks up the journey before I arrive in Rotorua ahead of an epic weekend of riding.
Checking into my hotel, I quickly assemble my bike, eager for a spin around town. When I’m travelling solo with my bike, this is my favourite way to get my bearings and spin my legs after a flight. Once back, my first destination is Hell’s Gate, a geothermal walking experience and mud spa. It’s a raw, otherworldly landscape where steam billows from the earth and boiling mud pools bubble just metres from the walking paths. Located about 15 minutes from the town centre, this active geothermal field has been utilised by Māori people for centuries for cooking, bathing, and healing. Wandering through the reserve, I absorb its cultural significance and the powerful forces beneath the surface. Rotorua sits directly atop the Pacific Ring of Fire, explaining the landscape’s unique geothermal activity, with rivers as hot as baths and bright colours oozing from steaming pools. That sulphurous scent in the air? It’s a Rotorua signature.
After spending over an hour engrossed in the pools and the bubbling, steaming landscape (a photographer’s dream in the afternoon light), I explore the on-site spa. I then dip into a long soak in the mineral-rich mud baths, the ultimate way to truly immerse yourself in the place. The constant whisper of steam, the pervasive scent of sulphur, and the surreal terrain make Hell’s Gate unlike anywhere else. It’s a Rotorua experience that connects you quickly to the region’s volcanic heart. As a self-confessed geology nerd, I am absolutely loving it.
I head back to the hotel before meeting up with local experts RotoruaNZ, who accompany me to an incredible evening at Te Pā Tū, a living Māori village. We’re welcomed by a pōwhiri, a powerful ceremony that feels incredibly fitting as a visitor to this beautiful place.
Day 2: Gravel in Whakarewarewa Forest
Day two hits, and it’s time to unleash the gravel bike on Whakarewarewa Forest’s legendary trails, the main gravel adventure of the trip. Cory, an elite Rotorua local gravel racer, has kindly offered to guide the ride, leading the way through one of the area’s signature experiences: the Forest Loop. Graded between 1 and 2 in difficulty, the loop traces a scenic circuit around Whakarewarewa Forest, weaving beneath towering trees and through lush undergrowth. To stretch the legs and see more of the surrounding terrain, the ride has been extended with a detour into town, descending directly into the heart of Rotorua and onwards to the lakefront. While the official route clocks in at around 33km, we decide to spice things up and link in a few more fire trails, stretching it out to a solid 70km.
We dart off to a corner store in town to load up on some snacks for the ride. One of my absolute favourite things about riding globally is hunting down the local lollies. I practically pore over the choices, eventually settling on some never-before-seen jelly pieces and a bag of jelly eggs – fitting for a town famed for smelling like eggs.
Setting out from here, a thread of pea-gravel trail leads toward the Thermal Path, a wide, undulating ribbon of Grade 1 trail that hugs the milky, steaming geothermal fields on the lake’s edge. Lake Rotorua, vast and strikingly shallow, is a caldera lake formed by a massive volcanic eruption around 200,000 years ago. Its waters rarely exceed three metres in depth, creating an eerie, verpresent mist on cooler mornings. The route skirts the lake’s foreshore, passing timber decking and walking paths where geothermal undercurrents rise close to the surface. Pockets of sulphurous steam billow from the earth, the scent of Rotorua’s volcanic activity hanging in the air.
Cory and I zip through this section, a perfect warm-up for the day’s ride. Eventually, the route reconnects with the Forest Loop proper, its entrance nestled beneath a majestic plantation of Californian redwoods and pines. Planted over a century ago, these towering giants have become synonymous with Rotorua’s trail network. The grove feels almost otherworldly, with filtered light streaming through the high canopy and casting dappled shadows over the trail. It’s a unique environment: the redwoods aren’t native to New Zealand but thrive here in the volcanic soil, reaching heights comparable to their Californian cousins and providing an incredible backdrop to the ride. With the overhead light largely blocked, the forest floor is surprisingly open and clear of undergrowth, a wild contrast to the Australian gravel I’m used to.
The trail conditions are near-perfect. Rotorua’s loamy, free-draining soil ensures that even after overnight rain, the track remains dry and grippy. A light morning sprinkle has only improved the tackiness of the surface, allowing tyres to bite confidently into each turn. The loop offers a flowing rhythm of rolling singletrack punctuated by small wooden bridges, subtle elevation changes, and
the occasional sculpted feature. Honestly, it’s just pure, unadulterated, flowy magic.
Tyre choice plays an important role here. I had opted for 42mm Ultradynamicos, sporting a lightly treaded centre for speed and beefier side knobs for cornering grip, which are absolutely dialled in. Despite the semi-singletrack nature of the Forest Loop, the terrain remains largely free of roots and rocks, making it ideal for a gravel bike or fully rigid mountain bike. The Cervélo Áspero proves a smart match for the trail, offering efficiency and agility over Rotorua’s smooth, flowing surface. Interestingly, Cory is also aboard an Áspero, and we move through the trail with ease, taking full advantage of the bike’s lightweight frame and responsive handling.
In Australia, gravel riding often involves rougher, rock-strewn fire roads or unsealed access tracks, terrain that typically demands wider tyres and a more forgiving setup. Riding the Forest Loop offers a refreshing contrast. It’s fast, flowing and meticulously maintained, a different kind of gravel riding that feels more like a cross-country mountain bike route. It’s easy to see why fully rigid
mountain bikes ignited the off-road scene here over 50 years ago, firmly planting Rotorua on the map as a worldclass mountain biking mecca.
The Forest Loop stands out not for its technical nature but for its accessibility, excellent signage and thoughtful wayfinding. It’s a showcase of how shared trail networks can open up wild spaces to a broader spectrum of riders, gravel or otherwise, and offer an experience that’s equal parts adventure and approachability. My absolute favourite feature? The bowls set out for the ever-present
trail dogs, complete with little makeshift waterslides to encourage passing riders to top them up. These ‘woofer waters’ are a genuine highlight of my visit (and anyone who knows me and my riding buddy, Roger the dog, back home will understand why!).
Without stops for photos or scenic detours, a fit and confident rider could complete the 35km loop in around 1 hour and 15 minutes. But many on the trail today are families, newer riders and casual mountain bikers. For them, the same loop becomes a more leisurely 2–3 hour experience. It’s heartening to see such a wide range of riders enjoying the trail, a real testament to the thoughtful design of the route, the access afforded by local land managers and owners, and the ongoing investment in recreational infrastructure.
The day ends on a (very!) bright note with a visit to the Redwood Nightlights Treewalk, where I bask in the glow of 120-year-old redwood trees lit up in a dazzling display of colour.
Day 3: Mountain biking and après-ride luxury
I pick up my hire mountain bike for the day from Mountain Bike Rotorua and am greeted with smiling faces and prompt service; my bike is named, has the correct pedals on, and is ready to
roll 15 minutes early. I meet Karl at the trailhead, a seasoned local with a background in guiding and hospitality. We head out to lap some of the closer trails and test out the bikes (he’s on a hire e-MTB), and we’re pedal-pushing in no time.
Karl’s a real character, and we quickly fall into conversation about his deep love for Rotorua. He has been riding here longer than I’ve been alive (sorry to out you here, Karl!), and it’s genuinely mind-blowing to hear some of the backstories behind the wild names these trails bear. I ask him what keeps him out here in this forest season after season, touring people around. ‘The greatest thing in this world is people,’ he says. He’s as chatty and enthusiastic as I am, and I’m amazed all over again at how, despite having a few Christmases separating us, we’re still absolutely
shredding the loam and having a blast.
With over 300km of singletrack snaking through this forest, Karl knows his way around like the back of his hand. I have to say, while this is an incredibly well-signposted trail network, it really pays to have a guide. I ask for flowy and fast singletrack, and Karl absolutely delivers. We roll up to the shuttle to catch a ride for a few runs, another epic feature of the park, with two shuttles running on each side of the hill and a safety paramedic on-site at all times.
The trails deliver world-class riding that keep an ear-to-ear smile plastered on my face as I flow down the smooth, sticky ribbons of loam. We whip down The Tickler, carving through the famous berms, and visit other wellknown trails like Hot X Buns. The riding here delivers pure joy at every turn, from silver fern-lined singletrack to small bridges crossing bubbling streams. We also head
further out to some of the less-frequented trails that dial up the technical ability needed but are a nice addition for experienced riders. But once the tyres stop spinning and the day is done, the second half of the adventure begins.
After waving off Karl and checking the bike back in, I make a beeline for Secret Spot Hot Tubs Rotorua, a sanctuary cleverly positioned right at the trailhead. I’m greeted by the tranquil sound of moving water and the inviting warmth of a central fire. The immediate reward? A food truck crafting a top-tier smash burger. This, paired with a cold beer, is the perfect fuel after a long day of riding. From there, it’s a quick transition to pure luxury.
I exchange my riding gear for a plush robe and step into the private hot pools. This isn’t my usual post-ride routine, but gazing out at the serene forest from the warmth of the pool is the ideal way to melt away fatigue. This is an inspired addition to the trailhead, providing the aprèsstyle comfort mountain biking has always craved. It’s an essential part of the Rotorua experience, earning a flawless five-star rating from me.
I round out the day with dinner in town at Atticus Finch and a hokey pokey ice cream (no trip to New Zealand is complete without it) before packing down my bike for the journey home the next day. It’s a relaxed start the next morning with some brekky at the hotel before making the 1.5-hour drive back to Hamilton for my return flight. After a few epic days roaming the loam, I’m already itching to book the next trip. Whether it’s for a perfect long weekend or an extended week, a hop across the Tasman to NZ has never looked more inviting.
