The ‘Island in the Sky’ in Victoria’s High Country
Words and photography NICK ESSER
Certainly the best value climb in Victoria, if not Australia, Mount Buffalo is a road cyclist’s dream.
A consistent and relatively gentle average gradient of 5% coupled with over 1,000 metres elevation gain offers a substantial challenge – and the views from the top are out of this world.
Colloquially known as the Island in the Sky, Mount Buffalo stands out from the surrounding mountains across Victoria’s High Country, with a unique granitic geology and breathtaking scenery.
The road stands out from its alpine neighbours as well – steady and long but without the steeper ramps and exposure of nearby Mount Hotham or Falls Creek.
Officially the climb starts at the defunct toll booth – the entrance to the national park – and continues up and across the Buffalo plateau to the historic Mount Buffalo Chalet.
The opening 2km offer consistent climbing at a friendly gradient of about 5%.
They also offer glimpses of the awaiting elevation, with spectacular views of the sheer granite cliffs of the Gorge towering ahead.
Not much further is the car park and walking track to Ladies Bath and Eurobin Falls, where the road kicks up briefly before heading north and settling back into its average gradient and passing through a series of hairpin bends.
On a hot summer’s afternoon, it’s well worth the return to Ladies Bath for a dip to cool off.
People have been heading up Mount Buffalo for millennia.
In the warmer months, Taungurung Traditional Owners would ascend the mountain to feast on the abundant Bogong Moths and escape the heat of the valleys – and European tourists have been in the area since the gold rush.
But it was the construction of the road that we ride up today in 1908, overseen by famed engineer Carlo Catani – also responsible for other epic Victorian climbs including Arthurs Seat and Mount Donna Buang – that brought nature-based tourism to the recently reserved national park.
False flats and granite slabs
A third of the way into the climb and after two long left-hand bends, the road flattens out into an enjoyable false flat for 2km, passing by the lush Rollasons Falls picnic area.
The change in both topography and direction opens into rich temperate forest comprising of a carpet of bracken and lush tree ferns with towering eucalypts overhead.
Cycling through the ecological variations as elevation increases and aspect fluctuates – from farmland in the valleys, through tall temperate forests to unique alpine plateaus – is one of the great pleasures of riding bikes in Victoria’s mountains.
As with all good things, at around the halfway point of the climb the false flat comes to an end and the road veers upwards again just as it swings into a series of three sweeping hairpins.
Here the forest thins to reveal the textured granite slabs prevalent across the Buffalo plateau and divulges breathtaking views back across the Ovens Valley at Mackeys Lookout.
The subsequent 7km continue along at the average gradient, with the occasional modest ramp after a corner as the road follows the mountain’s topography.
Meanwhile, alpine ash starts to give way to ghostly snow gums.
As you’d expect from a category one climb in the High Country, Mount Buffalo has played an important role in state cycling events and the local racing scene.
The climb has been a feature of countless Audax Classics over the years and in recent years has provided the queen stage in the Bright Brewery Tour of Bright – a legendary multi-day tour on the Victorian cycling calendar.
It was at last year’s Tour of Bright where the KOM and QOMs were smashed by reigning National Champion Luke Plapp and then Movistar team rider Sarah Gigante respectively.
Both went on to win the stage and the General Classification.
Eighteen kilometres in and having gained the plateau the road offers up a reprieve in the form of a 700-metre descent down to a left hand turn towards the Mount Buffalo Chalet.
From this intersection, the average gradient returns for two further kilometres as the road winds through a series of hairpins before the climb comes to an end at the Gorge Picnic Area in front of the historic building.
After such a classic climb it’s worth taking a moment to recover and explore the area – there’s usually a coffee van in the car park and the views from the glass-bottom lookout are phenomenal, so long as you’re not afraid of heights! In terms of times, the fastest A-graders should make it up to the chalet in about an hour, but any time inside of 90 minutes is a good achievement.
Beyond the climb
The alpine township of Bright is the logical starting point – offering 10km of undulating warm-up before the climb itself and a total distance of about 70km for the out-and-back trip.
Although for those with larger appetites, further exploration lies beyond the chalet with about 13km and 450 metres of additional climbing across the plateau, including a dramatic final 2.5km gravel section up to the Horn – Mount Buffalo’s highest point.
While certainly possible in spring and autumn, Mount Buffalo is best tackled in summer, when temperatures on the plateau can be more than 10 degrees cooler than in the valleys below.
As with other climbs in Victoria’s High Country, winter is normally off limits due to the high likelihood of snow cover across the plateau and the chance of ice on the road.
Regardless of the season, weather can change rapidly in the mountains and it’s a good idea to pack a gilet and arm warmers for the descent.
There are accommodation options to suit all budgets in Bright, Porepunkah and Myrtleford a little further down the valley.
Cyclist’s favourite would have to be the Art Series Townhouses.
Right in the centre of Bright, the luxury self-contained units are perfect for unwinding in comfort when not on the bike.
As well as epic climbs, the Ovens Valley is known for its grapes, hops and local produce, and there is no shortage of exceptional cafes, restaurants, and wineries – picks of the bunch include Ringer Reef Winery for a post-ride rosé and the Bright Brewery for a post-ride amber ale.
Choose one, or just visit both.
Nick Esser is a cycling writer and photographer who can confirm he opted for the latter
Mt Buffalo
The Map
Location Victoria’s High Country
Start Mount Buffalo National Park tollbooth (now defunct), about 6km past Porepunkah
Finish Mount Buffalo Chalet
Road Mount Buffalo Road
The Stats
Highest point in climb 1,333m
Total ascent 1,015m
Distance 20.4km
Average gradient 5%
Maximum gradient 11%
Current best Strava times*
KoM Luke Plapp 41:18
QoM Sarah Gigante 52:40
* Note that the most popular Strava segment is 18km and ends about 2km before the chalet
Art House Townhouses Bright
Cyclist stayed in comfort at the Art House Townhouses – a collection of five luxury-appointed townhouses in Bright.
Four of the recently developed townhouses feature two master bedrooms, full kitchens and generous living rooms that extend out to balconies with mountain views, while the fifth townhouse is a penthouse that includes three bedrooms.
All are beautifully designed and carefully curated, filled with limited-edition prints from Australian artists. They also very happily welcome cyclists – each townhouse offers its own separate lockable bike store.
Located on Wills Street, the townhouses are perfectly situated right in the centre of town and opposite the popular Sixpence Coffee and Reed & Co. Distillery.
Just a little further along on Camp Street are Billy Button Wines cellar door and Australian eateries Tomahawks and Ginger Baker – not to mention Bright Brewery around the corner on Great Alpine Way.
For more info on Art House Townhouses Bright or to book, head to brightboutiqueaccommodation.com.au or phone 0488 554 888 and speak to Priscilla.
